Plant of the Week: Oak Leaf Hydrangea, Hydrangea quercifolia

A shady spot perfect for Oakleaf Hydrangeas

 
Oakleaf Hydrangeas are an excellent choice for a large shrub in a shady or sunny area of the garden and landscape. Huge cone-shaped flowers may be as long as 12 inches. They fade from pure white to an antique shade of pink as summer gives way to autumn. 

Fading late summer flowers

The spectacular large, oakleaf-shaped leaves change from green to garnet red in the fall. Peeling bark on the stems add even more interest to this already fascinating shrub. 

I admit that left alone, the Hydrangea quercifolia can get too large for some areas. One planted at the edge of my stone rancher has grown well passed the roofline, needing to be trimmed back occasionally. Planted in the proper area, they do not require pruning and bloom reliably year after year. In addition, there are dwarf varieties, including one called Munchkin, that top out at 3 feet with a spread of about 4 feet. Other varieties range in size from 5-7 feet. Take a look at the Plant Finder tool on our website for more information on the many varieties we are likely to carry. 

'Munchkin', a compact variety

'Snow Flake' Oakleaf Hydrangea

The broad leaf multi-stemmed shrub has an upright spreading habit. Its leaves contrast well with evergreens, both broadleaved and needled. In my own garden, it is planted with  Variegated False Holly, Osmanthus heterophyllus 'Goshiki',  and Plum Yew, Cephalotaxus harringtonia ' Fastigiata'. The bed also has perennial ferns, hostas and hellebores. The foundation plants were chosen for shade tolerance, foliage compatibility, and, with the exception of the hostas, deer resistance. 

Hydrangea 'Munchkin' in our sales yard

Plum Yew is a great companion plant

False Holly offers mottled leaves with yellow coloring

It did not take long for the Oakleaf Hydrangea to fill up a large space. I expect them to outlive me as they seem very happy in their garden setting. They have not attracted any insect pests in the 10 years they've been in my landscape. I like that they and the ferns planted in the bed easily self-propagate and cover the soil without the need for mulch. Do mulch them if they are out in the open, especially with a 1/2 day or more of sun. These hydrangeas are hardy to USDA Zone 5A and are native to our area. 

The flowers are excellent for cutting anytime as they fade from white with some pink edging to the dusty pink later in the year. For crafting, they make beautiful wreaths for the fall. 

Hydrangea Wreath photo courtesy Fine Gardening magazine

Do consider Oakleaf Hydrangeas for your garden. I've been very pleased with mine. 

The photos in this blog are mine or from Plant Finder on our website unless otherwise credited. 

June is National Pollinator Month -Pollinator Week is June 17-23

Monarch butterfly feeding on Solidago, Goldenrod, as it migrates through Maine.

 It's National Pollinator Month! We've learned so much about pollinators. We are as dependent on them as they are on us. We realize that one of every three bites of food we have is a result of the pollination of vegetables and fruits.  

How do we decide what to grow for our pollinators? 

Provide diverse plantings that bloom throughout the growing season. consider plants like Clethra and  Echinacea (coneflowers) for the summer and Solidago (goldenrod) for the fall. 

Clethra attracted swarms of Swallowtails to my garden

 

Think Native Plants. We have gotten better about promoting native plants that adapt to local climate and soil, attract wildlife, and are beneficial to native pollinators. Use Rudbeckia, Black-eyed Susan's, Maryland's state flower for summer plants. I love Mertensia virginica, Virginia Bluebells, for early spring, and Eutrochium purpureum, Joe-Pye weed for a fall native perennial. 

Lobelia cardinalis growing in shade 

Swallowtail and Bumblebee share the wealth provided by Joe-Pye weed

It's ok to plant annuals. Lantana, Salvia, Cuphea, Zinnia, and scores of other annuals provide nectar all summer for pollinators that we might attract to our vegetable gardens. Herbs are important too. I plant several 'sacrificial' parsley plants every year to feed Swallowtail butterflies. 

Hummingbird taking a break atop a dahlia

Avoid pesticides to protect pollinators. If an unwanted plant has become a major issue, consider removing it manually. For things like poison ivy, cut the plant back and treat the cut-end with Stump and Vine Killer, which works without having to spray a pesticide. I use the same practice to eradicate Tree of Heaven, the invasive host plant for Spotted Lantern Flies. 

Tree of Heaven Photo from University of MD Extension

Paint the cut of the unwanted plant for control. Use for Poison Ivy, English Ivy, Tree of Heaven. 

Provide water. In birdbaths, leave a stone in the bath to allow for perching. Fill shallow saucers with sand and water for butterflies. Put in a small pond to attract frogs and dragonflies. Your yard's diversity creates diversity in the pollinators you attract. Do be careful of standing water as we don't want to attract mosquitos. I add Mosquito Dunks to birdbaths and shallow pools to prevent them. The Dunks do not harm other wildlife. 

Provide shelter from predators in the form of small trees, perennial beds, hedgerows along fence lines and vines growing on vertical structures.

Don't keep the garden too tidy. This is my favorite tip. I've noticed bees in old firewood, and woodpeckers in dead trees.  Some bare ground will provide habitat for soil-aerating ground-nesting bees. Pollinators like weeds too.

The University of Maryland Extension provides more excellent information on the subject.

Visit us during June for an extensive choice of Plants for Pollinators!